Climber's Elbow
- onsightpt
- Nov 13, 2023
- 1 min read
Also known as "medial epicondylitis", "golfer's elbow", "flexor tendonosis". Regardless of the name, this condition can be a real pain in the elbow. Specifically on the inside of the elbow where the common flexor tendon of your finger flexors attach.
It can persist for weeks, even months after taking a break from climbing.
From the injury prevention approach, here are a few habits that can help improve the pain:
Revamp your warm-up routine
Pin and stretch the finger flexor tendon
Ice/Heat post-climbing
Strengthening global muscles around the shoulder
Avoid overgripping holds
Isometric holds in elbow and finger flexion (i.e. sub-bodyweight hang boarding and bent arm hangs)
Perhaps you are too cold before hopping on the wall and then climbing at a high volume and high intensity for several hours. Perhaps your recovery could be optimized with thermotherapy and movement. There are several ways to approach climber's elbow and the best thing to do is seek professional help to get a diagnosis and detailed treatment plan based on your own climbing routine and workout schedule.
Feeling elbow pain particularly after a climbing session?
Resources to Refer to:
The Climbing Doctor: "Medial Epicondylosis"
Training For Climbing: "Treating 'Climber's Elbow'-Rehab & Rehab Protocol
Gripped Indoor Climbing: "Stretches to Avoid Elbow Pain from Climbing"
Comments